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Made the mark by The Tastemaker

 

The Taste Maker and its sister print publication, B Beyond, had an exceptional
gastronomic evening at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in smart Covent Garden,
London, UK.

The name is already synonymous with culinary excellence throughout the world,
something that attracts both the serious foodies and those keen to experience the
superlative in haute cuisine.

The three floor restaurant and bar is strategically situated in the centre of
Theaterland, next door to the Ivy club.

Our experience of L’Atelier began with drinks on the terrace, a hugely covetable
outdoor space that few London restaurants have.

I opted for a Georgia Mint Julep, while my companion had a Margarita.

Both cocktails were unequivocally 10 out of 10 for their perfect balance of flavours
and we would have happily spent the evening sampling the drinks menu.

We then proceeded to the ground floor dining room which has an opera box feel to
it, but with a contemporary twist provided by the green wall (in case the reader is
not familiar with green walls, these are real plant-clad walls that oxygenate the air
and add tremendously to the interior’s aesthetics).

Aesthetics are, in fact a big feature of the restaurant, designed to prime the senses
for the culinary delights ahead. Food as art is the main theme throughout.

No “Fifty Shades of Grey” at L’Atelier! The dominant colours are a strong and
seductive combination of black and red, the lighting muted, and the open plan
kitchen set as a stage.

We dined by the bar, a prime position for watching the chef and his team weave
their magic.

Eminently helpful staff introduced themselves to all the diners and explained each
course and the accompanying wine.

The majority of diners appeared to have opted for a degustation menu, Matching
Discovery of France.

The aperitif, Parmesan cappuccino with port, was an incredibly indulgent

concoction of tiny morsels of foie gras in port wine and parmesan sauce.

The first course was Scottish lobster salad with artichokes ‘barigoule’ and
citrus vinaigrette, accompanied by a finely flavoured 2009 Pouilly Fumé “La
Demoiselle” Domaine Henri Bourgeois, Loire Valley. This light and delicate
course paved the transition between the richness of the aperitif and the subtly
spiced second dish of

Scottish scallop Carpaccio, sea urchins and lemony olive oil, served with a fresh,
full-bodied white, 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Château La Nerthe,
Rhône.

Our third course was L’Atelier’s very sophisticated yet comforting interpretation
of the ham and pea soup, with mint and bacon shavings, in a perfect fusion of
flavours. This was accompanied by a Greek white whose name escapes me but
which provided a topic of conversation on generic grapes with the sommelier of
the evening.

Our forth course was a Seared Scallop, cooked to perfection and interestingly
paired with a fragrant 2006 Gewurztraminer “ Cuvée Christine” Domaine
Schlumberger, Alsace.

The fifth degustation course was Sea bass flavored with lemongrass served
with fondue leeks with an aromatic 2010 Vin de Corse Calvi, Domaine Etienne
Suzzoni, Corsica.

The main course was a Grilled Lamb Cutlet with mint and a truffled mashed
potato, accompanied by a discreetly tannic 2010 Savigny Les Beaune, Denis
Carre, Burgundy

François’s duo of desserts was fresh, light and heavenly, served with an
incredibly indulgent 2009 Clos Des Paulilles, Banyuls, Languedoc, France

Conclusion

We were taken with the concept of food preparation as performance art. The
reverence with which every dish was prepared adds to the unique experience of
ultra haute cuisine.

The degustation menu illustrates the richness and sophistication of French cuisine
to perfection.

The wine matching is a testimony to the resident sommelier’s creativity and
boldness of choice (Greek wine was a case in point).

The atmosphere changes from one floor to the next, with the bar on the top floor
being more informal and relaxed and the ground floor restaurant imbued with
reverence for excellent food and food preparation.

Clientele is international, united in its appreciation for everything working together
to create a perfect Central London oasis of impeccable taste.

We are delighted to rate L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon a resounding 10 out of 10
and award it the highest Tastemaker endorsement.

N.B. We have decided to stay away from elaborate and often florid wine
descriptions which we feel are the domain of wine writers. Our editors hail from
wine-producing countries where wine is savoured more than written about.

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Michelin Stars: 2

13-15 West Street,
London
WC2H 9NE

Telephone: 0207 010 8600

Reservations: [email protected]

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